Day 292: Surfin’ Currumbin!

G’day,

My first full day on my mini surfing holiday started out at Currumbin Beach (a couple of beaches north of Kirra) where I met up with Mal, the surf coach who got me standing up for the first time!

After a few months of sporadic progress I decided last night to get another lesson from Mal at Surfing Services. This bloke is a veteran of the local surf scene and has been riding waves for over 40 years. 

He has an amazing ability to communicate simple but effective tips. His mantra this morning was, “eyes up, back foot, front foot.” That was pretty much it, and it worked! 

While there is a lot more to surfing than just those three pointers, mastering these basics will get you on a wave and enjoying the experience! In a certain sense surfing requires a lot of effort for those 10 to 20 second rides, but once you’ve done it a few times it becomes addictive!

Another interesting thing from this morning session was the amount of calories I apparently burned, 520! Being out there though I can believe it! Add in the shoreline steps as well and it was a quite a workout!

Until tomorrow,

AJ