Day 173: I Stood Up On A Surfboard…20 Times!

G’day,

What a glorious day! I stood up on a surfboard, not once but for the whole 90 minute lesson! Amazing, if someone would have told me I’d be doing this in July last year I wouldn’t have believed them!

After trying and failing over three hours of surf lessons I started to doubt whether I’d ever be able to do it. Being surrounded by ten-year old groms carving up the waves right next to me actually doesn’t help either! I started thinking to myself, “Maybe I’m too old to get the hang of this.”

But, I persevered with another lesson and lucked out Mal, my instructor. He is a veteran of the surf scene who’s been riding waves for 40 years and it showed in his advice. He was very calm and simplified it for me, “eyes up, hands flat, back foot, front foot.” This was his mantra and by the end of the lesson it started becoming second nature to even me!

What a blast it was, if you’ve ever thought about taking up surfing let me tell you its all worth it! There is no other feeling like cruising down a wave putting on a turn or two, great fun!

I’ll be checking in tomorrow with my final results from Mission 2 along with my Judgement Day Challenge videos for 5km run, 250m swim, chin ups and push ups.

Until then,

AJ

PS If you live on the Coast and want a lesson I highly recommend the guys at https://surfingservices.com.au